Updated September 4, 2026 10:06AM
And there I lay on the ground. Snow up my jacket, and my goggles knocked unevenly. How did I wind up here, dangling under the rope tow of a surface lift for the second time? I’m a ski industry professional after all, and this is flat-out embarrassing. To rewind a bit…
South America is having a banner year—a Utah-style 900-inch-season type of year. One that will be remembered for generations. Valle Nevado was on my must-visit list, especially with a new hotel debuting this season. When I got the invite to come down, the timing was too serendipitous to resist.
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Two summers ago, I spent a week in Portillo and had one of my favorite ski experiences to date. I was frothing at the mouth to return to Chile and find out if anywhere else could compare to Portillo’s cerulean blue skies, endless vistas, and signature cotton candy sunsets. I had high expectations for Valle Nevado. I just didn’t think it’d involve so much time on the ground.
So, how did I find myself lying down, Jerry-style, underneath a surface lift as children, possibly still in diapers, passed by me without issue? As it turns out, I hadn’t quite mastered the momentum of the South American surface lift. After I returned to the queue, humbled as ever, the liftie kindly assured me that riding the lift was “easy.” Clearly not, I thought.
On the third attempt, I had figured out my mistake. I was holding the bar far too tightly, so when the lift slowed, I was getting bucked off, rodeo style. A loose grip, as counterintuitive as it felt, would ensure I’d make it up the mountain.
Surface lifts aside, the resort delivered. I knew Valle Nevado was home to a few hotels and restaurants, as well as the fastest lift in the Andes. Thankfully, I learned almost immediately upon arrival that the employees at Valle Nevado (and there are around 1,200 of them) are kind, proud, and eager to help.
And the skiing? Oh man. Let me tell you about the skiing. The resort is wide open, so staying on or off piste is up to you. The terrain is bald, but what it lacks in tree skiing it makes up for in cruisey runs that wrap around the property. Grooming is exceptional, but if you’d rather break your own terrain, the backcountry has a pretty epic reputation. I stayed in bounds my entire trip, but I never felt bored.
The Mountain: Valle Nevado’s base sits just under 10,000 feet, and its summit is just over 12,000 feet, making the vertical drop around 2,600 feet. Forty-four trails and 17 lifts—including one gondola, detachable chairs, and surface lifts—cover the 2,200 acres. The mountain is family- and beginner-friendly but will surely please experts; the terrain is 14 percent beginner, 25 percent intermediate, 41 percent advanced, and 20 percent expert. Unlike in the U.S., Chile adds a red triangle trail rating to the ski run classification system, which I found to be similar to a double blue.
Tickets for Valle Nevado are included in the price of lodging, and the resort is on both Ikon and Mountain Collective passes. In fact, it was one of the first international resorts on Ikon and has been with Alterra since 2018. Skiers can use either this winter (2025-’26) or next winter’s passes (2026-’27). If you have both, you can stack them for up to 14 days on Ikon and four on Mountain Collective.
Valle Nevado offers skiers some unparalleled views of the Andes. You’ll find breathtaking vistas just about anywhere you look, but some of my favorites coincided with my favorite runs: Tres Puntas, Sol, and Trote, a cat track with plenty of room to explore.
One thing to note: many of the lifts are surface lifts, which may look like the T-bars back home but move with much more force. Of the 17 lifts, seven are surface lifts, and beginners should expect mastering them to take some patience. My recommendation: start off standing with knees bent, and once the lift lurches forward, squat into a sit.
One other thing to know is the top of the mountain gets pretty windy, at least in August when I visited. We found that the lifts that went all the way up (Andes Express and Mirador) had frequent slowdowns or stops as gusts blew through. At times, gusts reached up to 60 mph. That might not sound like a big deal, but I got so badly windburnt that I had a red nose, not unlike Rudolph, for a full week after returning home. Apply sunscreen and Dermatone liberally!
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Valle Nevado is south-facing, which I assumed meant the snow would be sun-baked. Then it clicked for me: Chile is in a different hemisphere. Their south-facing slopes are our north-facing slopes. The snow sticks long after the storm clouds clear. Another perk of skiing in a different hemisphere? It stays light out long enough for lifts to spin until 5 p.m., and skiing at golden hour is pure magic.
The Town: Valle Nevado feels more like a campus than a town. More than 10 distinct buildings hold hotels, restaurants, employee dorms, spas, gyms, and even a mini market, giving the resort an all-inclusive feel—pretty much anything you could want or need during your stay is available. The area is walkable, but winter conditions can make the roads slick and cover the sidewalks and steps in snow. Shuttles from hotels to the main base area run regularly.
Getting There: From Santiago, Valle Nevado is only about an hour-long drive. However, mountainous roads and vehicle checkpoints make it a good idea to leave the driving to the experts. You won’t want a car once you’ve arrived in the village, so booking a shuttle from the airport is the way to go. Plenty of companies offer shuttles, and they generally cost around $45 per ride.
Where To Stay: Valle Nevado has lodging for every type of skier. For an upscale experience, check out the Valle Nevado Hotel. Hotel Tres Puntas is meant for groups like ski teams or large families. The brand-new Aconcagua Ski Residences offer spacious rooms with fully stocked kitchens for up to seven guests.
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All properties include a ski pass (for both Valle Nevado and La Parva) and breakfast, and most also include dinner at one of the many on-site restaurants. Prices shift based upon peak season, room type, and location, but generally start at $316 per person per night and can rise as high as $1,000 per person per night.
Where To Eat: Valle Nevado has five on-site restaurants included with lodging prices. There are also a handful of additional restaurants available for an additional cost, including coffee shops and an on-mountain, fast-food-style cafeteria.
Also worth filing away: On sunny weekends, the outside deck of the French restaurant, La Fourchette, transforms into a traditional Chilean BBQ. The wood-fired grub was hands down the best midday ski meal I’ve ever had.
Where To Après: Grab a Pisco Sour (Chile’s most famous cocktail) at the chic Bar Valle Nevado, Bar Puerto Del Sol, or Pub Tres Puntas.
Sidequests: Ski at Valle Nevado’s neighboring resort, La Parva, for only about $20 added to your Valle Nevado, Ikon, or Mountain Collective Pass. (The two mountains share a peak.) Skiers staying at Aconcagua Ski Residences receive free tickets to La Parva.
You can also ski El Colorado (you can see one of its surface lifts from Valle Nevado), although you will need to purchase a separate pass at the El Colorado ticket office.
If that’s not enough adventure, heli-skiing is convenient and leaves from the village through Valle Nevado Heliski. If it’s not enough relaxation, check out the Hotel Valle Nevado Spa or catch a film at the cinema located inside the Puerto Del Sol Hotel.
Worth a return visit: Absolutely! When it comes to the Andes, there is so much to explore. Once the sun begins to set, visitors are treated to some of the most beautiful light shows I’ve ever seen, and I found that hour to be one of my favorites. Due to high winds, I didn’t get to ski as much of La Parva or the backside of Valle Nevado, so I will definitely be back!
